A pancake does not have to begin a sweet breakfast. Deb Perelman’s winter squash version at Smitten Kitchen belongs just as comfortably beside a green salad at lunch, with roasted squash giving the batter its warm color and grated cheese taking the seasoning in a savory direction.
The recipe uses cooked, mashed winter squash, so it is worth considering when a roast squash is already part of the week’s cooking. Yogurt or sour cream joins eggs and flour in the batter. Perelman finishes the pancakes with sage crisped in browned butter, crediting Mimi Thorisson as the inspiration for that finishing touch.
For a brunch table, we would make this the savory centerpiece and keep the other dishes simple. A plate of lightly dressed leaves gives guests something fresh between bites; a pot of coffee needs no elaborate accompaniment. The pancakes also offer a way to bring autumn produce to the table without repeating the familiar pumpkin-spice route.
Recipe by Deb Perelman, Smitten Kitchen. Visit the complete recipe for quantities, preparation and cooking guidance. Explore more Brunch God recipe features.